The mythical market coffee stand run by Wilem and Natalie is about to be sold on with bigger hurdles awaiting the potential new owners.
Wilem Rijtsma was born to a working-class family in 1961. The north of the Netherlands was always characteristically distinct from the urbanised Holland. Gras lands, windmills, infinite fields of kaleidoscopic tulips and a simple lifestyle strung together by bike friendly infrastructure and simple food, enjoyed with a side of Mayonnaise.
Eventually, the countryside played itself out for Wilem and he wanted to move into Groningen, the largest northern city of the Netherlands. There in 1983 he met his wife Natalie, a Dutch born shop worker with Filipino origins. Both motivated by their shared industriousness, they wanted to go beyond their marriage and materialise their bond. The tangible aspect to their love came in the form of a Bakfiets, a tricycle defined by its square tub hanging over the front wheels with a single wheel in the back.
Groningen was known for hosting a farmers’ market every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. There, local producers, spice merchants and flower distributors could leave the quiet countryside and enrich the citizens of Groningen with their organic stuff. The newly married couple saw the market as a place of escapism, indulging in the local selection and making it their social event of the day. They would spend hours browsing, chatting and connecting with the town folk.
“I was never in love with the coffee,” said Wilem pointing out a gaping absence of his favourite beverage. “It was a shame that our experience was always dragged down after trying the coffee,” he said. Natalie suggested then, in sheer confidence “we can do it better”.
Natalie learned to always take control of her life; this included the things she consumed. After being blessed with a food centric family, flavour became her second language. “A lack of taste was always a lack of life,” she said and the same goes for coffee. The dark elixir remains a morning tradition for the working couple. Dissatisfied with the offerings, they took their passion for the roasted arabica and proceeded to book a spot for the Groningen market.
Armed with their Bakfiets, coffee maker and litres of milk, they first arrived on a chilly Tuesday morning in 1987. It was six in the morning and the streets were desolate. The rumble of diesel engines and a mumble of distant voices filled the chilly air. They find their spot and start to unpack. “It was Natalie’s idea for the chalkboard” said Wilem, referring to an iconic chalkboard resting on the tricycle displaying their options. At first, they stuck to the Italian classics. Espresso, cappuccino, latte macchiato and americano.
“On our first day, we sold out by 2 o’clock in the afternoon,” said Wilem. Surprised by the demand of their special blend, they decided to come back with double the amount. A year later they bought a tent and seating arrangements. Wilem admitted “we were pleased that our investment made a mark and smiles on people’s faces made us happier than the money we made in the end.”
Their success supercharged their passion of bringing caffeine to the people. Soon they became a staple of the Groningen farmers market, with people greeting them on those cold mornings whilst they set up shop. “Students in particular, loved our coffee and always told us about their days,” said Natalie. They arrived in their Bakfiets everyday for almost 40 years, using up 60 litres of milk on a bad day and dealing out hundreds of coffees to undercaffeinated students.

Now however they face retirement. “I am getting tired,” said Wilem. “I used to be excited about the long lines and happy customers, now it feels like a job”. Indeed, the pedestrianisation efforts by the municipality twisted things for the coffee fanatics. “Now, if you want to have seating arrangements you will need to pay a different license” said Natalie, always handling the business side of things.
The business started making a lot less money due to their increased licensing costs and competition around the city centre. “I want to sell the business and go into retirement with my wife,” said Wilem.
Indeed, the market is always blessed with good coffee by their competition, however Wilem and Natalie were the first to do it and their Mocha still stands unchallenged.










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